A perfect last day of the season – First tracks down the Ronde on Midi

Yesterday morning I was really excited to go skiing, but my ski partner for the day called me while eating breakfast to tell me he was backing out. 
Romu cruising the Ronde
I got really disappointed as I knew it was probably my last chance to go skiing for the season and I had a feeling it was going to be great up there. I went back to bed and slept for another two hours, but then I could just not stand it any more – I had to get out there! My girlfriend Ale was also encouraging me to go out, as she could not stand me being frustrated for the rest of the day.

So I got back in to my ski clothes and walked over to Aiguille du Midi. It was really calm at the lift station and only one skier was waiting for the bin.
I had only met Romuald Baudrier a few times on town, and we where the only skiers there so we hooked up for todays venture.

Arriving at the top we where above the clouds, it was warm and the sun was shining and we had about 20 cm of fresh powder snow. We started skiing just outside of the ice cave on the north side of the arête, then turned down on the south side and continued to Glacier Ronde. There where no tracks from other skier on the whole mountain as far as we could see and it felt like a worthy way of ending a good season by dropping in on an untracked Ronde with no other skiers around.

The skiing was great and it was really fun to be out with Romu on the mountain. Everything went smooth, but I would not have liked to do the traverse back to the mid station much later. A lunch at Cambre 9 followed and now its time to return back to Scandinavia for a spring filled with climbing and guides courses…

The wonderful thing though is that I have enjoyed these two weeks in Cham immensely and I really miss the spring ski adventures here. I’m ready for a break from skiing after a great but long season but I’m already looking forward for some autumn adventures and the start of next winter!

Life is good when one can do lots of fun things and still have time to look forward for more coming! 

A worthy way of ending the season

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Bjarne Sahlén interview

If you follow this blog you have probably seen some of the movies from my adventures. The man behind the camera is most of the time filmer Bjarne Sahlén!
Bjarne Sahlén (Photo: Mike Douglas)
Here is an interview with him on Swedish freeski site freeride.se – Check it out here! (Swedish only)
Or check out Bjarne’s video blog at endlessflow.posterous.com

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A very long but awesome day at work

Yesterday Bjarne and me had a long day at work. On our quest to get the final material for the Salomon Freeski Tv episode we went up on Midi in the morning and did one Grand Envers in great snow. It had been snowing during night and we woke up to a beautiful day, but still not many people chose this side of the mountain as the Montenvers train are not running due to the hard winds last week.
We got what we came for on the three first pitches and after that the snow was just too heavy for shooting. Still enjoying the last part of the run we met up with Tom Grenall and Glen Plake at the bottom and then we took the ladders up to Montenvers, continued on skis down to the James Bond trail and then followed a thirty minute walk down to town.

After an easy lunch we went up to Grand Montets to wait for the night. It was a long and cold evening, but when night came we got exactly the night shots we needed to finish of this week of filming. We where actually extremely lucky that we got this last day of perfect conditions as Bjarne had to go home today. Now the rest of the work is on Mike Douglas and the crew at Salomon Freeski Tv, it’s going to be really fun to see the result! 

Intonation workout

Aiguille du Midi

Bjarne at work
My tracks with Midi in the backdrop

Bjarne in ski action
Mt Blanc du Tacul

Bjarne skiing on the second pitch

Good old memories

Glen Plake and Bjarne on the ladders

Tom, Glen and Bjarne

Myself at Montenvers

Bjarne doing some spring skiing

Myself reading the newspaper on Grand Montets at 7 pm… I like technology at occasions like this 

Bjarne at sunset

Cham at night

Bjarne in the dark

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The end?

When as a boy I read the stories of Swedish climber Göran Kropp and his adventures (including riding a bike from Sweden to Nepal and then climbing the highest mountain in the world) I was stunned.

I read about his adventures and from then on I started sleeping many nights in my sleeping bag on the side of my bed on the floor with the window open. The adventure was on and I could not see any other way to live my life.

Back then I was stuck in the fully conceptualized way of thinking where I drew a line between myself and the others – the people who realized their dreams. My grand intent was, luckily, to smash all walls and limits I could possibly find – but still I drew a line in between them, the people who, in my world were free, and myself. I think I gave them mystical powers of strength as well as physical, mental and economical standards.

Fifteen years later I know from my own experience that the people I used to look up to where not really stronger than anyone else – they had just been following their dreams.

Where to?

Before I would have said the end, but nowadays the end mean something completely different to me and now I’m satisfied saying that they have just taken their dreams a little bit further than the normal, met their fear a little bit more than the average person.

The end means something completely different to me now. I have so many of my friends who have taken their quests to the end that society calls death, that I sometimes have a hard time appreciating the value of “taking something to its end” and to give it the right proportions.

I’m not even sure I believe in the normal concepts of life and death any more. What’s what, and which is which, and which is that? I have visited many worlds and from some vantage points, what we keep as things important and serious just seem like a game of sticks and stones between kids.

What society view as sane is only accustomization to what’s widely seen as the normal. And with “the normal” means only having the normal fears, normal views of reality, normal limitations and so on of any ordinary person who have experienced something normal in life.

Society, though, is slowly changing its vantage point to the one of the rebels of its own self. The rebels are never acknowledged in their own time (at least not in their own youth, with a few exceptions) but it’s always their breakthroughs in consciousness that tomorrows reality will be built upon.

So what are we going to do with the gems of truth we find among the ice, rock and snow on the mountains? What are we going to do with the small satoris we experience on our everyday adventures? What can we do?

What can we do if not just enjoy them and share them with our friends? From one point of view they are only childish escapistic and romantic games we play. From the other end of the scale they are the very reason we are alive, the great meaning to life.

So what’s next in line? What are the worthy adventures to follow to their ends? And what is really the end – can we ever get there – to the end?

For me, the next thing in line is to try to normalize a life not normal. I don’t mean that I need to normalize it to someone else’s standards, but I need to do it for my self. I need to find a platform on where I can live, love and grow in harmony with my self, my family and friends. I have met death, and I have come back and I have also met life and come back from that. Where can I take these extremes on the scale (as we know it) and find coherence? Where can I out of this coherence still get the depth in a life built of opposites?

Yes, I hear my own thought threads; every question leads to another question, but maybe, sometimes, questions are the moving answers that we are searching for. They are alive, where I imagine the final answer would be a dead one – its killing the feast, it takes the curtains away.

The worthy adventures of the future will be the ones that invite uncertainty to the table together with beauty and esthetics on the other side. And at the other end of the table there have to sit an unanswered question. This is how I imagine a good adventure.

It have to be uncertain, because for me, things that are static are not alive and if an adventure is certain (success, risk, reward etc.) it can be done purely in ones mind – it would not be worth using the playground of this world to expand our consciousness and go out in it and play.

It has to have beauty and be esthetic because that, I think, is one of the secrets to life. I’m not just say that it just has to be a beautiful mountain, river, wilderness, wall or something you can grip. It can also be beautiful in its own execution, like alpine style ascents of big mountain faces are, in my mind, some of the most beautiful things that exist on this earth.

A good adventure also has to have an unanswered question because that, when pure, is the engine of the whole feat. The adventure has to answer the questions to the likes of: where I brave enough? Did I have enough heart? Or skill, or strength, or experience? Or just some other questions that could be found deep within!

Then comes the question what the end is? In normal mountain adventures the goal and the end is usually the same thing. We are going to climb this or that route on this or that mountain and if we are succeeding in the objective, we did it in clean means and if everyone is back safely its usually taking this particular adventure to its end. But then, the mountain people, or maybe it’s a human thing, however, we seem to have a passion for doing what we do in general; for example climbing mountains. And taking this passion to its end is much harder to define, but maybe my friends that have perished, perhaps that’s what they did?

I can’t though, avoid the question what “the end” really means.

It’s the death of something, that’s pretty clear. Even though the word “death” really means the ending of a biological organism, I feel like we can use it as, for example, the death of a dream, death of a vision and so on – An ending to something.

I think it’s impossible to not be a mystic when it comes to talk about any important question. Mysticism, really meaning going beyond words in to one’s own personal experience.

But how can we experience something that will be the end of ourselves and subsequently our own experience? Using words, either everything will stop and we will not experience anything – or the experience will continue and we will experience more…

For anyone with an assemblage point not totally stuck in the “normal” way of thinking there is, to say the least, hope for the future. But that’s not where this thread of thought is going at this moment.

It’s going to continue on the “going to the end” and “what the end is” and its not going to uphold itself with what’s behind the curtains.

For me, to take something to its end is to live every aspect of it fully, whatever that might be. It does not have to do at all with biological death. If one is interested in skiing, well then ski till you don’t want to ski any more. Be smart, don’t get injured, sick or kill your self while doing it. Back of when needed, because “perseverance is favorable” as the old proverb, states. But still ski, till you break on through to the other side!

The same goes with food, climbing, career, love or anything else, where living it through is the only way to take it to its “end”.

So this is where I am right now. In some ways I feel like I have lived my own dream of skiing, as it where, through, and now its time for the next step. How am I to live the middle age skiers life (a life of a skier is definitely counted differently than a normal life) where many of my old powerful dreams of the past are lived through, where I need to preserve and renew what’s left of my body, where most of the friends of old have quit or are gone and when motivation and enthusiasm does not come as easily.

Well, then its time for new adventures! Its time to use the knowledge and experience gained by time to realize the biggest of dreams and even the dreams I didn’t dare to dream before. Its time to take a step back on some places where I have nothing to gain but still take two steps forward where my dreams and ambitions are pointing, saying; “live this life, live this chance, live what’s here because here and now is the only thing that is”. What the consequences of this dream will be, I don’t know, but what ever happen – if I don’t follow it through it will come with regret and what would be the reason to dream at all, if I don’t follow these magical dreams through”?

Through, to the other side of that wall or that curtain, through, to the next adventure to come. Because if I don’t want to learn and live this adventure to its end, it will repeat itself till I’m happy to learn. But, by then, the risk is that the adventure that was supposed to be magic will just be executed in routine – its opposite.

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A day at Midi

Today me and Bjarne went up above the clouds to Aiguille du Midi to get some shots for the shopping list. It was a beautiful day up there with no people what so ever except a Dutch guide group. We skied, did lots of shooting, skinning and posing. It was good to be up there, but as the snow was pretty good, the Cosmique or the Ronde was really tempting… 

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Down days in Chamonix

In the last few days we have experienced some of the hardest storms in years in Chamonix. We are supposed to be up in the mountains filming, but instead we get to enjoy the valley in summer conditions… 

Bjarne Sahlén on our traverse project on Pierre d´Orthaz
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A morning on the hill

Yesterday I went up with Tony, Tristan and Bjarne to see if we could do something up high. Conditions where against filming, but we got some really fun skiing in variable conditions! Its great to be riding the lifts again after a spring of walking! 
Tony…

Tristan charging 

Tony imitating Alain Robert… 

Tristan in couloir Philippe  

The best run of the day actually… 

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