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Alpine Ridge Climbing In The Kebnekaise Massif

After our stay in Lofoten we drove south towards Luleå, but on the way I did a small divagation to Kebnekaise, Sweden´s highest mountain, for some alpine climbing. Part of the Swedish guides program is a certain list of easy alpine climbs on different locations everyone has to do before the final exams. The reason is to practice one´s short-roping skills (rope skills) as well as getting to know new mountain areas. Most of the climbs on the list are situated in France, Italy and Switzerland, but we have a few qualified climbs in the Kebnekaise massif that are perfect for short roping.
The South Peak of Kebnekaise, the highest mountain in Sweden with its circa 2103 meters. 
So, on our way down south I left Ale at the train station in Kiruna and continued to Nikkaloukta. From there I walked in to Kebnekaise mountain station where I were to stay two nights, hang out with old friends and relive old memories (I used to work there back in 2007). 

On the next day I went out climbing the Crater Ridge with Emma Wahlberg on Toulpagourni in rainy conditions. In the evening I got invited to join the working crew on their annual party, which was a really warm gathering.

Early Monday morning I took of with Isaac Doude Van Troostwijk for the East Ridge on the North Summit of Kebnekaise, the second highest point in Sweden with its 2097 meters. From the summit of the north peak we did the ridge walk over to the higher south peak, and then back again traversing Kebnepakte and the Wolf Ridge down to the Tarfala hut.

This last winter a Norwegian military Hercules plane crashed straight in to the ridge between the two highest peaks in Sweden and it was unreal to see all the scrap metal that is lying around on the peak and the sharp smell of jet fuel that’s still there, a few months after the accident.

In Tarfala we met friend and great hut keeper Lars who welcomed us in to his home for the night. Lars is 70 years old, filled with warm energy and gentleness similar to that of a Tibetan monk or a Zen master. Lars know nothing of these things, but he have through experience attained an wisdom of life that is shining out through his person. If you read this Lars (he got an Ipad in the hut), know you are a role model for many of us out there!

Yesterday we continued with a climb of the South West Ridge of Kaskasepakte, Sweden´s Matterhorn, followed by a traverse over to Liljetoppen and a descent down to the hut via Liljetoppsrännan. At the hut we had a short lunch before we took the trail back down the valley. At the bridge Isaac went back to the station for a few more weeks of guiding and I walked back to Nikkaloukta and then, to finish up a long day – I drove back to Luleå. Now I got two days here before we will continue south!

Boat ride on the way to Kebnekaise mountain station

The station can be seen in the far distance

Kebnekaise Mountain Station

Emma on our way up to Toulpagorni 

On the south ridge of Toulpagorni 

A beautiful landscape down the valley 

Isaac at the start of our walk to the east ridge of Kebnekaise. Toulpagourni in the background. 

Kebnekaise south and north summits. 

Isaac, always happy! 

The East Ridge of Kebnekaises north summit. 

Topping out 

Airplane metal 

The Swedish military cleaning the mountain 

Myself and Isaac on the highest point in Sweden 

The East Ridge 

Isaac with the Wolf Ridge in the background 
Kaskasepakte, Sweden´s sixth highest mountain 

Tarfala 

Lars 

Isaac 

A magic sunrise at 5 o’clock in the morning 

Reindeers 

Isaac on the South West ridge of Kaskasepakte 

High up among the clouds 

Isaac and myself on the summit of Kaskasepakte 

Rappelling down 

Isaac on the famous gap 

The North Face os Kaskasepakte, probably the most difficult north face in Sweden 

Tarfala from Liljetoppen 

Lars and friends at the Tarfala hut 



 

Today´s Exploits can still be pretty daring!

Some say that the mountains were wilder in the old days. I say that for high end ski-mountaineering and climbing the mountains of today can still be pretty daring.

Check out my article on the subject at EpicTv here.

Myself alone high up on Col de Aiguille Verte Direct in Chamonix, France

The last weeks in Lofoten

After one month of guiding work in July, I have had the last two weeks reserved for vacation. After a really intense year of traveling, adventures, work and hard training, of course the first thing that happened when I could relax was that I catched a cold. So the first week in August I was sick, lying in bed, reflecting upon life and, got back in to writing mode and watched a few really good movies. I guess I really needed the time of to be with my self and see what I really need in life and to calibrate the direction and thought patterns that are guiding my grand ride. Because life is just a ride, right?
It wasn´t before the beginning of this week that I was able to go outdoors and do stuff. I have always wanted to do the Presten roof boulder problem so I started working the moves out for that one. It´s not harder than 7a+, but it´s my antagonist in every kind of way as it´s steep (it´s a roof, right) and long. But yesterday I got to put it together on my second go, and now I feel like I’m ready to leave Lofoten for this time. In between the bouldering sessions, Ale and myself went out to do the north ridge of Vågakallen – The biggest climb of her life and a good short roping day for me.

Midnight in Henningsvaer
Now the next stop is Kebnekaise for some easy alpine climbing and short rope training. It will also be a good well-needed training session for the adventures to come in September.

It has been another awesome summer in Lofoten with great people and rock and plenty of long mountain runs and Yoga sessions. This place will always stay close to my heart (as we say in Swedish), but now it´s time to move again!  

The climbing café in Henningsvaer, the place to be in Lofoten and home to Nord Norsk Klatterskole

Breakfast on the pier 

On our way to the north ridge of Vågakallen 

Ale on the crux pitch

The legendary jump

The view from the top 

My dear girl friend Ale

On the roof on our descent of the normal route 

Ale bouldering

Morgan Sahlén on the Presten roof

Myself on Presten roof 

And on the 6c arête   

Below it´s shown how to send the Presten Roof (it´s not me)… 

The risk of not risking is boredom

In our lives the thing we fear most is the uncertainty. Fear itself can be directly translated to that which is certain and in a plain way we can say that we fear being scared.
Fear have brought society to worship safety more than anything to a point where the general direction of humanity is to “live to survive” instead of “living for paying”.

9 ramp
Mallroy on Stortinden, Lyngen, Norway

This is leaving us with a huge problem. If we are able to obtain the perfectly safe world that society is moving towards, what will then the excitement of being alive be?
The reasons we play games is the excitement of uncertainty. When we, in the midst of a game, can see who the winner is going to be, then the thrill of the game, for this round, is terminated. Only the memory of excitement together with the prevision of delight in case of a possible return of the game remains.
One could of course ass well see the play of life as a dance and some would say that in dancing we don’t need to risk anything. Yes, it might not be the risk of loosing like in other games, but we still need to play the beautiful art of improvisation. And when improvising we are leaning in, thrusting, the uncertainty of this moment, and letting that which comes out from it be demonstrated as art.
The point is that, in any game worth playing, there need to be a certain mix of skill and uncertainty.
If we, by training, can obtain a level of skill that makes the outcome certain we have taken away the motivator behind playing, and boredom steps in through the door.

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High up on the Orient Express, Denali, Alaska

Swedish alpine ski legend, Ingemar Stenmark were once heard saying: “the more I train, the more luck I seem to have”. He was playing by these rules, but anyone that has been a player, athlete or spectator of any sport or drama will remember the excitement and the feeling of freshness of life, the apparent meaning of this moment and the oblivion of time more from a game that was either won or lost by a tiny margin than a game with a grand margin.
Games that are way over our heads, where we have no chance what so ever to win, they will never be an exiting play either.
Of course I’m not advocating a dangerous society. But I do want to encourage the idea of people going out in nature or life in general and play with the uncertainty that is one of the cornerstones that a joyful life is built upon. There have to be a responsibility following the experienced freedom of playing with life, and that should be to not endanger others in our pursuit of glimpses of happiness.
Other than that, lets go out there, play, and chase even the tiniest fractions of boredom away from our doors of perception.

Ungraspable smoke – Or the girl named Meaning living in a world called Beauty

In a world of shadows I try to fetch something hard and tangible – something that will not move like smoke in the wind from my hand.
Life is a search for that which will stay, a lofty search for permanence some would say. One part of me have already lost the faith I though I had in grasping the secrets of life. How could we seize something we, ourselves, define as ungraspable?
Many are seeking for happiness, but have you ever heard anyone being able to truly put in to words what he´s searching for? Can it be that we are in love with the idea of finding that which cannot be found, and there for, if we find it – we will be touching the sublime?
How many layers of the onion do we have to peel of before we can see that there is no center of material truth? And if we are turning the world upside-down, well, then there is no space, no no-thing either.
Words and worlds fall a part in the same way, because in the end, they are but the same; ideas with value put upon each other in a wonderful peace of art.
What would the meaning of it all be, if not to exist in its own way only because that is the dance of every-thing and no-thing, space and no-space.
Shadows are dancing on the roofs tonight and smoke is falling from the sky like rain. The water is creeping up along the walls, because it is aiming for the stars. The moon is shining and giving light to a scene or characters that have run out of play. The play is used up, you see, and what composition can the universe serve up with then?
Empty hearts are beating of-rhythm because of-beat is the radest we can imagine of anything. No, is the other side of yes.
So will we find a world in the end built up out of one´s and zero´s like a giant matrix of black and white? Grey, you know, can be a mixture of black and white dots seen from a distance.

beach

I´m back by the shore, under the moon with the stars somewhere high up above the clouds and I can hear the water breathing and hitting firmer ground. My body is pulsating and my feelings have power. I know nothing matters more than the value you choose to give it. But if we have that power, to give value, why not pour that everywhere we find beauty.
I’m doing my best to follow my thoughts and dreams to their ends, but then what? What is there behind the end? Some imagine a great treasure on the other side of a magical door by a mystical sea.
But what will I do with this treasure? Can it buy me anything I really don´t have right now?
Being brought up in the western world I have the means to create the funds to buy any thing or experience I can imagine I would want. A treasure of gold might entertain for a while, but then what?
Will there be sensual pleasures on the other side as some kind of reward? In my wildest fantasies I cannot imagine any sensation that would satisfy me more or differently than the ones I can experience in this reality. Then again, of course there is a risk I´m having a lack of imagination.
Or shall I be running for the reward of nothingness? Well, the next step from having is to not have, and in that case it´s where I´m going when I die anyways. Why should I either desire or not desire something that will be and when it becomes it will not be there, nor my feelings of craving, fear, pain or love. As you see, taking words to their endings always lead to the absurd.
However I turn my world in my palm I don’t see a reason why I should be afraid, nor do I see any reason why not to live this life in the most adventurous and wild way possible. Wild for me can be to party, train harder than ever, do the ski of my life, love the girl of my life as much as it can be sitting on a hard cushion in a monastery for ten years. None of these alternatives are square to me as long as there lays an inner desire behind them all.
The lowest benchmark I can imagine is living in a way that you don´t want to live. But that is not because I feel it´s worse than any of the above mentioned. It´s simply not a beautiful story to tell, and in that sense there is a girl named Meaning living in a world called Beauty.
Beauty held still in a clenched hand will not remain beautiful at a second glance. Permanence might be the grand illusion we all aim for but that no one would really want to have. Change is the bliss we all fight and are afraid of. So instead of running for the eternal rewards that we don´t want in the first place, lets enjoy the changing beauty of the dance that is happening around us. The sublime is already here, because we will never be able to explain anything of importance.
The world is changing back to its normal ways. Smoke is rising and the water dropping from the roofs in the small village. The sun is shining somewhere high above the grey clouds of this ordinary new day and everyone around is living their everyday games. It´s time to go out and touch the beauty of the ticking time and the change that´s slowly creeping upon this earth.

Snapshots from week no4 in Lofoten – “The wettest week in ten years”

I don’t have too many photos from the last week of work. Some locals called it “the wettest week in ten years” and my focus was on keeping warm, keeping the clients safe and some days I simply left the camera home. But in the end I had a good week and I´m really impressed by everyone on the course for an awesome positive attitude.
No I´m of work for a while and will concentrate on climbing, running, planning of the autumn as well as a more social life! 

Glåmtind in the rain and fog

This week the Eagle ridge was even more wet 

Morgan rigging at Kalle

The View from The Piano Crack

After wet days out, at least there is a warm atmosphere to come home to… Here is Jonas, Martin, Magnus, Mum, Ale and Fredrik

Any climbing condition will feel good after experiencing this… 

Interview with Finnish MAXsport.tv

Here is a small interview with me that just came out on the net. It was made by Kim Öhman earlier this winter for Finnish Maxsport.tv